Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Saturday, 17 August 2013

Dinosaur Ridge


This morning A took me to see Dinosaur Ridge, at one of the hogback outcrops west of Denver.

Allosaurus terrorising local traffic

It was a great place to see the geology in action – I could imagine how the Denver region was once at the bottom of a sea, and how over the years sedimentary layers built up to a depth of two miles thick (!!!!!), and then the whole continent rose until it was a mile above sea level, and then 70 million years ago the Rockies began to grow, buckling and pushing the two-mile-deep layers up to the surface. There was even an older version of the Rockies, 280 million years ago, which were eroded down to nothing before the present Rockies even appeared.
 


The scale of time and space involved makes my brain hurt. I’m used to dealing with centuries, or at best millenia. I can’t deal with this crap.

The hogback on the right has been pushed up at an angle, the plain on the left is a two-mile deep layer of sediment

What’s special about this outcrop is that it preserves amazing dinosaur fossils and footprints in ancient shores and stream beds. Obviously the layers were once horizontal, but they’ve been pushed up at an angle, so you can get a really clear view of the whole surface.

An ancient stream bed

Iguanadon footprints

Fossiled burrows of little river worm things

Even the ripples on the river bed have been fossilised!

Ancient sedimentary layers

The white layer is formed of crystals from volcanic ash over 100 million years ago

I think this is a dinosaur bone

It was a pleasant, sunny walk up the Dinosaur Trail, stopping at fossil displays while cyclists whizzed past. Back down to the friendly visitor centre, I got chatting with one of the gift shop attendants.

SHIT A DINOSAUR oh no wait it's only a model

She asked if I knew anything about geology, so I said I was an archaeologist by training. She got excited and called over one of her colleagues, who had just been on a two-month archaeological dig in Africa, so we had a chat about archaeology. I was also telling the lady how much I loved the Denver climate (dry heat! mountain trails! no stupid oceans and beaches!). She asked if I would like to live here. I said yes, but then added glumly that there wasn’t much call for medieval historians in Colorado.

Really, who would not want to live here?

Guess I should have been a paleontologist instead.

Sunday, 22 May 2011

Hostel crazy

There’s a reason I don’t like staying at hostels, and it’s the same reason I should probably do so more often: I always attract the odd types. This time I was staying at a hostel in Chicago, sitting in the foyer, minding my own business, reading a book about fourth-century aristocrats in the western imperial court, when a large, heavy-featured, middle-aged guy deposited himself on the chair next to me.

“Just gonna sit down before I take off,” he said. I smiled vaguely and tried to look busy.

It didn’t work.

The name of this place should have been my first warning

For the next fifteen minutes or so we exchanged occasional polite comments, and I kept my nose in my book. I learned nonetheless that he had hoped to get a dorm bed in the hostel for the night, only to find that none was available. So he had booked one for the next night, and was planning to spend the night in a 24 hour Starbucks, then he would come to the hostel and check in as early as he could. And he would sleep until someone kicked him out. “No-one better disturb me,” he growled, his black baseball cap pulled low over his brow. “Anyone wakes me up, I’ll put a foot in their ass.” Then he started telling me about his haemorrhoids.

It wasn’t long before he was explaining his theory about why America has gone to hell. He was fifty years old, a former factory worker, and unemployed. He had travelled across America and had seen the pollution everywhere. He blamed the British for the terrible state of the country: micro-toxins in the water, emaciated trees where once were virgin forests, the nuclear moonscape that is Nevada. The best of the British had stayed at home, he said; only the worst, the greediest, the cruellest, had come to America. He was Hungarian – 100% Hungarian – and despised the bastard tongue he was forced to speak, when he should have been speaking his mother tongue, or at least German.

100% Hungarians

But it wasn’t just the British. It was the Africans, too. The British, of course, were to blame for bringing the Africans over, and starting wars with them. The last time his people, the Hungarians, had fought the Africans, under Attila the Hun in 398, they had beaten them. (Half a century too early for Attila, and his Huns had fought Franks, Gauls, Italians, Burgundians, Goths, Vandals – in fact just about everyone except Africans. I didn’t mention this, of course, as I didn’t want to derail his delicate train of logic.)

Why had America lost its manufacturing base? Simple. The factories had become multi-racial workplaces. (He looked over his shoulder, leaned in close, and explained this part in hushed tones.) People of different colour didn’t get along in the factories. The worker of one colour (i.e. black) complained to the foreman that a better worker of another colour (i.e. white) had called him an offensive name, and the better worker was dismissed. Then the black foreman sabotaged the manufacturing process so that the American-built car went rusty, and the industry was destroyed. He didn’t explain why the black foreman would want to do this, but he did ask me to guess what happened next.

Racial tension

“Hmm,” I said.

“Go on, guess.”

“All right,” I said, “all the manufacturing jobs went overseas.”

“Where?”

“The far east.”

“Exactly.” This is where his logic came to form a beautiful, racist circle. All the people in China look the same, so there is no racial tension on the factory floor between persons of different colour. Quite entranced by this argument, I told him he should write a book about it. He agreed. “People want to hear the truth,” he said.

Racial harmony

The Jews came in for a hard time, too, of course; no semi-coherent rant about why any particular country is fucked up is complete without a mention of the Jews. I can’t recall exactly what they had done. It wasn’t good though. (Earlier in the conversation he had shown me his current reading material – Albert Einstein on the theory of relativity – in order to demonstrate his intelligence. In fact he tore out the back page to give me his email address.)

He had a simple ten-year plan to fix America. First, stop all of America’s wars and bring the troops home – not just from Iraq and Afghanistan, but from Europe, Japan, anywhere else. This sounded quite reasonable, I thought, but then he said that America should also build a huge wall along the Mexican border, and plant mines along it, and I knew we were back in Crazyland. Then America should invest in manufacturing, and build up the military (this seemed a bit contradictory with stopping America’s wars, but never mind).

That was pretty much it. “Give it ten years, and we’ll see where we are.” This was important, for within ten years, he believed, China was planning to occupy Taiwan and provoke a nuclear war with America. He had obtained this information from a retired colonel in military intelligence whom he had met once hitch-hiking, and whose name he could not recall.

At about this point he decided he needed to go to Starbucks and sleep. He rose and shook my hand and wished me well, and left.

Setting the world to rights is a tiring business, that’s for sure.